Introduction

The Manx which is the flying wing version while the Hot Cat has traditional tail feathers.  Both are primarily EPP Construction.  But the similarity with other EPP aircraft seems to end there.  These look to be very high performance models.  They have the thinnest most efficient looking airfoils I have ever seen in EPP.

Darwin Garrison has not rushed to market with these kits, they are very well thought out designs and kits.  

I constructed the Manx while traveling, hence the plush covered building surface.  The Manx is a very complete and extraordinarily well thought out EPP design.

Darwin has out done himself.  He has some really neat design ideas built into these nice kits which are also nicely priced besides.

This plane builds up fast, especially if you have some experience with EPP foam models.

As with all EPP models, construction consists of bonding in any spars or stiffeners, spraying the EPP with 3M77 adhesive and then placing layers of filament tape and final coverings.  The 3M77 is absolutely the adhesive of choice for this operation.  Nothing else seems to work as well.

Some words of warning; follow his instructions, use the recommended adhesives Darwin has debugged it pretty darn good.  The changes I tried to make resulted in taking it back apart and doing it his way.   I could have been flying a week earlier if I would have been smart enough to follow his directions.  Darwin has some techniques that were a little different that what I had used in the past.  On this model Darwin's methods are better.

For sure follow all his directions about keeping the wing flat.  Lacking a good hobby building surface I found it chore to keep the wing from having some droop.    Darwin gives the choice of covering with the Zagi type tape or the Oracover Film.  I would definitely recommend the Oracover.  If I had used the tape or something else I do not think I could have ever gotten the wing flat.

Completed Wing Core & Elevon Stock

All shown setting on the fuse

Completed Wing with the Elevons

All shown setting on the fuse

One change that I did make was to install a sub-Firewall.  Same as the one supplied, but with a large hole bored in the center to allow the motor to pass through and then I screwed the actual Firewall / Motor mount to the Sub Firewall.

Firewall Modification

I was particularly glad I did this as the first speed 400 motor I used just would not rev up well, so I had to change the motor right away.  Being able to just pull it out the front made it some what easier.  I also want to be able to pull the motor out, and put a Rx pack up front and try it slope soaring.  Looks to me to be ideal for that also.

The only EPP carving left to the builder is to cut out the two cavities for the servos & to carve out a passage from the rear of the motor cavity to the front of the equipment cavity.  I did less carving out on the passage by making the motor removable from the front, however, Darwin recommends opening up the passage all the way for cooling

I used Titebond II wood glue throughout construction and recommend that you use something similar, especially on the wing. Pica recommends their brand of aliphatic glue, PICA GLUIT. I wasn’t able to find any until the building was almost complete.

Servo Installation & Access Hatch

Clean mounting of the servos, needs minimal carving and they are also easily removed even after the wing is permanently glued on.

Darwin's really clever hatch design.  Consists of a piece of nylon push rod housing which slides through the corroplast from the firewall through the hatch cover to the end of the corroplast.  Don't feel bad if you can not visualize this, I did not understand it until I opened the kit.  It works great.

 

Finished Manx.

Mine came out just a tad over 17oz, I did not have a 5.5X4.5 prop available so I used the trusty Gunther (Zagi Prop).  On the other hand I still have some of the old 500ar's and used them for my flight pack.  I am pretty sure the extra omph of the 500's made up for the lighter prop.